Thursday, October 2, 2014
The install was completed a month ago, just now posting. It was build modular so that we could install it quickly and minimize the aquariums downtime.
It is now operational as the pictures below show.
We still have electronics panels to complete (upper blank 19" racks) as well as some display surface content in the center. These panels each have an Arduino that runs the lighting effects. The upper panels on the left are examples.
It is a lighthouse turning (one of my other hobbies) that you can turn on when something pleasantly memorable happens in your life.
The lighthouse is turned linden finished in a whitewash and water based polycrylic.
The Fresnel is a 1/8" clear 3D printed cylinder.
LED's provide the light, powered by cell phone brick.
Center of tower is bored for power cable
Stay tuned for some Arduino animation in the next version :)
Pictures below are self explanatory.
Saturday, July 12, 2014
I am building a mock ships com center for a client and we installed fake water lines in the overhead.
As part of the pipeing I used some old pipes whose flanges needed to look like they were attached to a sidewall.
3/4" bolts were expensive and I needed 20 of them.
The obvious solution was to 3D print them. I went to cad downloaded some bolts and printred a few. They looked great......
They took 45 min a piece to print, that's a long time and a lot of wear and tear on my printer.
I went back to cad and designed then printed a two piece mold. I decided to use polymer clay as the medium. Good idea except the clay would not come out of the mold. 3d printing doors not really leave a smooth surface and the clay stuck like crazy. After trying PAM, water, acetone, laquer and sanding as a release method. I was about to give up. When I presented the problem tho my wife she without hesitation said; "use cellophane"... Great idea, it worked perfectly.
The only other challenge was to hold the mold together while forcing in the clay.I solved this by making a form for the mold to be inserted in.
-Insert mold in form
-Lay in cellophane
-Slice clay on 1/4" strips
-Force strips into mold a layer at a time
-Insure that each layer is blended into the last.
-Push loaded mold from the form
-Peel cellophane from clay
-Add to cookie sheet for baking
-Bake and the bolts are ready for gluing in place.
Sunday, July 6, 2014
Then after printing for a while I got surprised by the multiple spool hub sizes ... uggh.
I started down the conventional road to printing multiple size spool holders but all the while it just felt WRONG that the spool was not on a hub with a bearing.
I looked at a number of designs on Thingiverse and it seemed that most designers were also trying to get rid of the friction of a bearing-less spool feeder. I also noticed that the conventional approach was to mount the spool vertically on a horizontal axle which meant that changing filament and spools required removing and replacing axles and hubs (for different size spools).
There is one design that I liked which had the spool ride on its circumference on bearings. I built one of these and quickly found out that tracking was a challenge unless everything was aligned and parallel. Loading and unloading spools was easy since there are no axles and no hubs.
From these experiences and ideas I came up with a hybrid design.
In this design the spool lays on its side over a hub that is supported by two bearings which is dropped on a vertical shaft.
The hub has 2 bearings, one on top and one on the bottom.
The shaft is fixed in a 2x4 frame and the hubs bearings slides down over the shaft.
There is a hub adapter (to the right in the picture below) that adapts the hubs smallest size to various other sizes.
The guide arm keeps the filament under control while feeding although I have printed successfully without it by just using the guide tube. I still wanted a control arm that I could mount a cleaning sponge on, so I kept it in the design. In the proto it is made of 1/4 fiber board since its length would have called for a multiple piece flat 3D printed design. Not everything is best 3D printed especially if you want it longer that 5.5 inches and flat :). Of course the hub adapter and guide are 3D printed.
The guide arm hosts a filament guide, also 3D printed, which is bolted loosely to it. The filament guide captures the feed tube holding it a fixed distance from the spool. The filament guide also houses (crudely with hot glue just now) a cleaning sponge.
Note: My research revealed that some believe cleaning the filament before going into the extrude'r helps to eliminate clogging, so I incorporated that into the prototype for testing.
My sponge is currently the conductive foam that IC's come in,I like that it is conductive since rubbing plastic would seem to build up static otherwise.
The spool is loaded on the hub and a filament guide arm slides down on top of the spool.
The filament and guide tube snaps into the slot in the filament guide.
The prototype can be seen in the video below and I have been using it successfully for a few months.
Simplify the Guide Arm with an integrated upper flange on its lower surface (the video is using a previous designs triangular hub. [I originally tried an triangular hub to eliminate the hug adapter but it was not a stable way to hold the spool and it would tilt]).
Add a cavity to slide the cleaning sponge into so that it is more stable and can be easily replaced when dirty.
Here is a video of the prototype operating.. smoothly... on bearings!
Tuesday, July 1, 2014
The exhibit is a mock "Communications Center" for a ship.
We are in the final phases of fabrication and assembly.
Here is a single console (one of four):
... and here is a full view of the entire center:
Thursday, June 19, 2014
Everything from home depot.
Acrylic cut in circle with hole for fountain and holes for the water to drain into the bottom of the planter below the rocks.
Cut the acrylic in a precise circle so that it stays about 4 inches below the lip of the pot.
Install pump-acrylic-fountain pipe-rocks-water-power.
Works great but could use a stronger fan!
- Fan: from WallMart (12v battery and adapter powered)
- Cooler: old one off the shelf
- 2" PVC elbows with reducers to go though the wall to 1.5" on the outside
Wednesday, April 23, 2014
Sunday, April 6, 2014
Sunday, March 30, 2014
My dog loves to chase a laser pointer and needs regular exercise.
-3d printed bracket and laser housing
-Micro servo from here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006RCLJPA/ref=wms_ohs_product_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-Home brew laser driver: 2N222 with laser connected in collector (+to 5v) and base connected through a 1k resistor to Arduino pin. Emitter to ground.
Friday, March 28, 2014
Wednesday, March 26, 2014
A few weeks ago my printers platten heater failed to heat.
As you can see from the picture below the connection to the platen and heater was poorly crimped, creating a cold joint, high resistance and finally it opened with the heat.
I recently got a new part from the manufacturer under warranty, replaced it and my printer is now up and running just fine.
-Platen not heating but the printer thinks it is. Temp on printer software never changes but no error from printer.
It seems to make better sense to me to put this spool above the printer rather than on the side.
This is an experimental spool holder above the printer holds multiple size spools also think it should be mounted on a hub with bearings....next.
Friday, March 21, 2014
The project is made from:
- An arduino uno
- A 3 watt stereo amplifier
- A Waveshield
- An optical sensor
- 2 speakers
- 9v power supply